Model-shipways 2003 User Manual download pdf (Page 13)

Running Rigging (Tan Line)

0.008" Dia. Line - Topgallant Sail Clew lines

& Sheets, Fore & Main Topsail Clew Lines,

Topgallant Yard Braces, Fore & Main Gaff

Vangs, & Main Gaff Ensign Halliards.

0.012" D

ia. Line

- F

ore & Main Topsail Yard

Braces & Sheets, All Jackstays, Fore & Main

ail Clue Garnets, Jib Stay Outhaul Tackle,

Jibboom Guys Tackle, Boom Topping Lifts,

Jib Halliard & Sheets & Downhaul, Jib Stay

Inhaul & Outhaul tackle, & Topgallant Yard

Tye & Halliards.

0.018" Dia. Line - Fore & Main Sail Tacks

& Sheets, Main Boom Sheet, Fore & Main

Topsail Yard Tyes & Halliards, Fore & Main

Yard Truss Tackle, Gaff Peak & Throat Hal-

liards, Lower Fore & Main Yard Braces, &

Anchor Tackle.

0.040" D

ia. Line

- Anchor Cable.

Blocks - Like the lines, the blocks for running

rigging are not sized on the plan. However,

blocks are sized to suit the line that runs

through their sheaves. The following list sug-

gests the block sizes that should be used with

the line sizes provided:

0.008" Line - Use 3/32" blocks.

0.012" Line - Use 1/8" blocks.

0.018" Line - Use 5/32" blocks.

Long Tackle Blocks - The plans show several

blocks which are long blocks with two sheaves

in line rather than side by side. None are

included in the kit. However, you can glue

two single blocks together end to end to

simulate the block, or simply substitute a

common double block.

Deadeyes - Use the smaller 3/32" Deadeyes

for the Fore & Main Topmast Shrouds, Fore

Topgallant Backstay, & Bowsprit Shrouds.

se the 5/32" Deadeyes for Fore & Main

Lower Shrouds, Fore Topmast Backstays,

ain Topmast Backstay, & the Bobstay.

3. Rigging Sail Lines

The D

apper

model is intended to be

completed with sails r

emo

ed. H

wever, even

without sails, some of the rigging lines such as

sheets, tacks, halliar

ds, and cle

w lines are to

emain, along with their lead blocks. Some of

the lines are to be hooked together, such as

the jib halliar

d and sheets, and yar

d cle

w lines

and sheets.

The r

unning ends of these lines

should be belay

ed at their pr

oper locations.

nstalling the sail rigging lines on the

apper

adds tr

emendously to the look of the

model, especially at the jib stay wher

e the

contrasting black stay and light running lines,

along with their blocks, cr

eate inter

esting

visual detail.

4. Applying Beeswax to the Lines

Before placing the lines on the model, run the

line thr

ough a block of beeswax sev

eral times.

Then, run the line through your fingers. This

heats the wax slightly and rubs it into the line.

The beeswax will cut down on fuzz and pro-

tect the line from moisture.

5. Seizing the Lines

Seizing of lines (binding or securing two lines

or different parts of the same line) can be

done as shown in Figure F-1. To prevent seiz-

ings from unraveling, add a touch of CA glue.

For seizings, use the 0.008" line in the kit or

sewing thread.

6. Blocks, Strops, & Fittings

Around the time the Dapper Tom was built,

the use of r

ope for stropping blocks, and for

parrels and slings on yards, was more com-

mon than iron fittings. However, such items

as ir

on-stropped blocks, hooks, and eyebolts

were available. There is no sure way to deter-

mine exactly what was on the

Dapper Tom.

The details shown in the sketches and plans

illustrate only one of the ways it may have

been done. A block shown lashed into an eye-

bolt could just as likely have been lashed

around the spar without the use of an eyebolt.

A strop is an iron or rope band or grommet

around the shell of a block for attaching lines.

The blocks in the kit are fairly small, so it will

not be easy for you to create the exact detail-

ing. Some modeling shortcuts are in order.

See Figure F-2 for some life-size ship details

and model options.

7. Rigging Tools & Belaying Lines

Figure F-3 illustrates some homemade tools

that are essential aids in the rigging process.

Figure F-4 shows some suggestions for belay-

ing lines to belaying pins and cleats.

A wor

d of advice - Rigging plans ar

e har

d to

follow. Lines cross each other and they some-

times go behind something or seem to

disappear into thin air

. B

efor

e y

ou start the

rigging, get a notebook and do a small sketch

of each rigging line on a separate page. Sketch

in wher

e the lines end, such as at an ey

ebolt

and label these points. If something seems to

be missing when you view your sketches, seek

help or find the answ

er in a rigging text (con

sult the bibliography). Use the final sketches

as you rig the model. You won’t need to crawl

our way thr

ough the rigging plan again.

When rigging such items as yar

ds, booms

and gaffs, do as much rigging as possible with

the item in hand before installing the part on

the model. S

eiz

e the lines to the par

t and

FIG. F-1 SEIZINGS

FIG. F-2

BLOCKS,

STROPS,

& FITTINGS

CLOVE HITCH

WRAP

THREAD

HOOK

BECKET

EYEBOL

LASHING

ROPE STROP

TWIST

WIRE

GLUE

LINE OR WIRE

SEIZE &

GLUE

NO HOOK

USING RIGGING LINE

SLIPKNOT & GLUE

CLOVE

HITCH

WITH

THREAD

LOOP

THROUGH

LINE

PULL TIGHT,

GLUE,

THEN

CUT-OFF ENDS

SLIP

KNOT

OUCH WITH

GLUE

CUT-OFF

END

TUCK UP & GLUE

AKED ON SMALL BLOCK OR SPAR

MODEL OPTIONS

SHIP

MODEL

FOR WRAPPING AROUND

YARDS & MASTS

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Model-shipways 2003 User Manual Page 13

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