Model-shipways 2003 User Manual download pdf (Page 7)

could also install a waterway without cutting

the nibs. Another way, the scored decking

could go into the bulwar

k, and a thin water-

way glued on top of the decking.

6. Creating the Ladder Way Hole

The ladder way sho

wn on the plan indicates

an open hatch with a ladder. If you want to

do this you must cut a hole into the deck. If

not, the hatch can have covers. The details

will be discussed in Stage D.

7. Cutting Out the Gunports

& Transom Ports

Cut the gunport openings and transom ports

according to plan. Be careful cutting the

gunports. After cutting, the remaining bul-

wark will be fragile until the cap rail is

installed. Use a fine razor saw blade to cut

the vertical sides and then cut the bottom

with a hobby knife.

8. Installing Bulwark Stanchions

& Cap Rail

With the bulwarks in a fragile state, now is

the time to install the cap rail and bulwark

stanchions. Install the stanchions first, then

the cap rail. While you are at it, up forward,

add the inboard side of the stem, knight-

heads and hawse timbers, and drill the hawse

holes. Also, add the doublers in way of the

sheet and tack sheave holes, and the bow

fairlead for rigging lines atop the rail. Drill

the fairlead holes befor

e installation. Figure

B-5 should clarify the details.

9. Installing the Outboard

Waterway Strip & Wale

The waterway on the deck of the real ship is

a wide plank that protrudes outboard just

past the normal hull planking. For our solid

wood hull you need to add a 1/6" square

strip outside the hull port and starboard for

the full length to simulate the outboard edge

of the water

way.

Below the waterway strips add a 1/32" thick

wale strip. The profile view on the plans

show the wale shape. Note that it is wider

forward and tapers to a more narrow plank

aft. See Figure B-6 for a cross section view in

way of the waterway and wale.

Before proceeding with additional work it is

best to mount the hull. This step will help

prevent details from becoming damaged dur-

ing handling and will allow you to make any

alignments that require a true waterline. Prop-

er mounting of the hull is very important and

will allow the accurate building and aligning

of the remainder of the model. The kit does

not include any parts for mounting. However,

the following suggestions are provided.

1. Mounting Board with Two Pedestals -

A common mounting for ship models is a

wooden baseboard with two wooden or brass

pedestals. For a homemade board, a nice

looking har

dwood such as cherr

, walnut,

and maple would be ideal.

ou can r

ound

the top edges of the baseboard, or cut a sim-

ple chamfer. If you own a router, or can

borrow one, you will be able to cut a nice

fancy edge on the baseboar

d. Stain the base,

if necessary, and give it a few coats of varnish

or finish like Minwax.

The pedestals could be wood or brass. One

pedestal needs to be longer than the other

because y

ou should have the model mounted

with the waterline parallel to the baseboar

f y

ou decide on this type mounting y

should alr

eady hav

e drilled pilot holes for the

screws as noted earlier. For

Dapper Tom, the

pedestals should be located near station 4

and 7. If something went awry and the

waterline is not level, you can add a brass

shim under one pedestal to corr

ect it.

2. Launching Ways - A second type of

mounting that can be employed is the

launching ways, which are most suitable for

models without sails. F

igur

e C-1 illustrates a

simple design. Drilling of the keel is still

required to insert rods that anchor the model

to the ways.

The launching ways should be

mounted on a baseboard or could be placed

in a diorama comprised of boatyard ground

activity

aseboar

ds, pedestals, and launching way

kits are available from Model Expo

(www.modelexpo-online.com).

STAGE C: MOUNTING THE HULL

FIG. B-5 BULWARK DETAILS

FIG. C-1 LAUNCHING WAY MOUNTING

ALIGNMENT

PIN OR NAIL

LASER-CUT

RAIL

FORWARD

TYPICAL BULWARK

ANCHION

GUNPORT

FRAMING

DOUBLER IN

WAY OF SHEET

TACK SHEAVE

HOLES

AFT

SIDE OF

STEM PIECE

KNIGHTHEAD

WSE

TIMBER

LASER-CUT

RAIL

RIGGING

FAIRLEAD

BLOCK

RAIL

BOWSPRIT

HOLE

STRIPWOOD RAIL AFT

WATERLINE

PARALLEL TO BASE

METAL ROD

OR WOOD

DOWEL

IN KEEL

BASE

KEEL BLOCKS

CROSS TIMBERS

SUPPORT

RAIL

SIDE SUPPOR

STRUTS

1/4" SQUARE

WOOD FOR

1/8" - 1/4" SCALE

MODELS

SUPPOR

BLOCKS

HEIGHT SET SO MODEL WATERLINE

WILL BE PARALLEL TO BASE

SIDE SUPPORT

STRUTS P/S

ABOUT

1.5 X BEAM

OF HULL

1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 ... 23 24

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Model-shipways 2003 User Manual Page 7

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