The northward spring migrations of the Ameri-can mackerel (Scomber scombrus, L.) gave riseto one of the most interesting and speculativefacets of the
10FRAMING THE PLANK-ON-BULKHEAD HULL 1. Bending WoodBuilding a P-O-B hull requires some wood bending and twist-ing of the wood parts which must remain
11FIG. 5 – Fore & Aft Bevel of StanchionsFIG. 6 – Installing the BulkheadsFIG. 7 – Aligning the Bulkheads, using BattensThe top of the sternpost r
12FIG. 9 – Cutting Bevels on the TransomFIG. 10 – Steam Bending the Transom PieceNext, check the fairness of the hull form and sand in the slightbevel
FIG. 11 – Installing the TransomFIG. 12 – Installing Horn Timber CheeksFIG. 13 – Installing the Planksheer138. Installing Horn Timber CheeksFrom just
14FIG. 17 – Belt BattensFIG. 16 – SpilingFIG. 15 – Staggering the Planking Butts PLANKING THE PLANK-ON-BULKHEAD HULL 1. Getting StartedThe planking pr
15A plank length approximately 6 inches will cover four bulk-head spaces. This is a comfortable length to handle for thismodel. To scale, it is a plan
16FIG. 20c – Planks in Belt “D” at SternThe next step is to cut planks to fit between the marks. Belt Awill not require spiling, so straight tapered p
17FIG. 20f – Fitting the Fashion PieceFIG. 20g – Installing the Great BeamFIG. 20e – The CoveFIG. 20d – Planking the Transompost. These two planks mus
Hatch & Cabin Coamings: Before planking, you must decidehow you want to treat the hatch and cabin coamings. A recom-mended approach for doing it
19COMPLETING THE BASIC HULL STRUCTURE1. Correcting & Sanding After all the planks are installed, look over the entire hull. Ifyou find seams with
2Instruction Manual The American Fishing SchoonerBenjamin W. LathamNoank Mackerel Seiner, 1902By Erik A. R. Ronnberg Jr., 1973Plank-On-Bulkhead Constr
20ADDING THE HULL DETAILSBefore beginning with the details, outline all topside items onthe deck by marking their locations with a pencil. Take all me
216. Main PinrailsThese are simple swellings of the main rail on its inboard sidesabreast of the main mast which hold the belaying (see lowerright of
11. BowspritAt this point, the bowsprit should be made. See the section onspar making for various construction methods. Next, make thesamson post and
23FIG. 35 – Pump AssemblyFIG. 36 – Boom BufferFIG. 38 – Propeller AssemblyFIG. 39 – Exhaust PipeFIG. 31 – Anchor CattedFIG. 32 – Assembling the Windla
24MAST & SPAR CONSTRUCTION1. General InformationCarefully study the details of masts and spars which appear onall four sheets of the kit plans. S
25FIG. 40 – Tapering Masts & SparsFIG. 41 – Lower Mast HeadFIG. 43 – Mast Head Bands & EyesFIG. 42 – Mast & Spar CurvatureNow make and fit
26FIG. 45 – Mast Caps & Masthead FittingsFIG. 44 – Throat Halyard FittingsMAINFORERingGaffSpectacleiron(These views looking forward)Iron strapNote
27FIG. 48 – Mast Wedges & CoatsFIG. 46 – Fore Boom Goose NeckFIG. 47 – Trestle TreesMast caps: Originally of iron, these are supplied as metal cas
288. Gaffs & BoomsMethods of tapering and shaping these spars are the same asfor the masts. But, you must adapt their lengths and the posi-tion o
29FIG. 54 – Gaff Ends10. IronworkIronwork is somewhat more difficult to make for the gaffs andbooms than for the masts and bowsprit. The bands are sm
3(continued from front cover)The schooners of the mackerel fleet varied considerably in size atthe end of the 19th century. Prior to 1880, vessels sui
30FIG. 55 – Bobstay IronsFIG. 56 – Jib StopsFIG. 57 – GammoningFIG. 58 – Bowsprit EndsIron strapsBobstay linkWirestapleDrill hole & cutgroove in s
31GENERAL RIGGING & SAILMAKING INFORMATIONRigging plans are often confusing because of the numerouslines involved, and the fact that overlapping a
32models is Egyptian cotton spinnaker cloth, sometimes calledballooner cloth. Model Shipways carries 100% unbleached fineweave cotton muslin, which is
33es up. Then, tie another overhand knot snug to the sail so thereef point won’t slip out (see figure 63). All reef points shouldbe cut over size and
(To convert sizes to 1/4” scale see Diameter Conversion Table)Item Material Diameter NotesBobstays (2) steel wire 7/8” all servedBowsprit guys steel w
35STANDING RIGGINGAs mentioned in the discussion under General Rigging Infor-mation, all lines for the standing rigging should be blackenedin color.1.
36FIG. 70 – Turnbuckles (simplified) FIG. 72a – Shroud SequenceFIG. 72b – Seating the ShroudsFIG. 71 – Bowsprit Rigging Cross-SectionFIG. 69 – Chainpl
37figure 72a). This joining will form a single continuous line thatyou can extend downward at both port and starboard in be-tween each of the two pair
38Setting Up the Deadeyes: Generally, the upper deadeyesshould be set up to the shrouds so they line up parallel withthe main rail (see figure 74). To
39FIG. 77 – RatlinesFIG. 79 – Spring Stay at Mast CapsFIG. 80 – Heads of Jib & Jumbo StaysFIG. 78 – Lantern BoardsFIG. 75 – Deadeye LanyardsFIG. 7
Brief History Cover, pg 3Introduction/Credits Pg 2Before You Begin Pg 5How to Work With the Plans & Parts Pg 6What You’ll Need to Start Constr
40FIG. 81 – Stropping the BlocksFIG. 82 – Main Boom Topping LiftRUNNING RIGGINGThe running rigging lines are all beige in color. If you are goingto ap
41Peak & Throat Halyards: These halyards can be hauled fromboth of their ends. The hauling ends are used to lift the gaffs up.The whip ends are us
42It should be anticipated that some topsail gear will lead to thegaffs. Precise leads are described in a later paragraph. There isalso a flag halyard
43FIG. 89 – Lead of Fore Topsail Tack (heavy lines)FIG. 91 – Coiling the RopesFIG. 92 – Rope CoilsFIG. 90 – Staysail Halyards (idle)FIG. 86c – Gill-Gu
44BIBLIOGRAPHYHistory of New England Fishing Vessels:1. Barnes, A.M. (compiler) American and Canadian Fishing Schooners, The American Neptune, Pictori
45Museums with important collections relative tothe New England Fishing Industry:1. Cape Ann Historical Association27 Pleasant Street, Gloucester, Mas
MODELER'S LOGDate Time Notes46ACKNOWLEDGMENTSIn preparing this manual, it was important to collaboratewith
47
MODEL SHIPWAYS3850 N 29th Terrace • Hollywood, FL 33020www.modelexpo-online.comMODELER'S LOGDate Time Note
5This kit differs from most in that its large scale (1/4” = 1 ft.)will permit the model maker to fabricate or “scratch build”most parts with great acc
Before starting model construction, examine the kit and studythe plans carefully. Familiarizing yourself with the kit willserve two purposes. First, i
7Silver Solder: If extra strength is desired, and also toavoid the lead in softer solder, silver solder can be used.A propane torch is a must, as the
8It may seem strange to begin an instruction manual with direc-tions on applying the finishes to the model. Not so! Much timeand effort can be saved,
9Grub (or Great) Beam: often painted white for visibility atnight.Deck: could be light grey, although some vessels’ decks werepainted Pea Green. Somet
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