Model Shipways 28 Instruction Manual

0• CANADIAN FISHING SCHOONER 1921 •TECHNICAL CHARACTERISTICSSCALE: 3/16" = 1’0" (1:64)Overall length: 32-3/4" Overall height: 27"O

Framing the Plank-on-Bulkhead Hull1. Bending WoodBuilding a P-O-B hull requires bendingsome wood without distorting itsdesired position (doing so stre

2. Center Keel AssemblyThe first step in constructing the hull isto assemble the laser-cut center keel.With a sharp pencil, mark the referenceline and

every bulkhead. It should feather outand lie precisely on the bearding line.If not, trim until it does. Also checkthat the top of each bulkhead at the

The waterway on the quarter deck is fit-ted similarly, except it is flush with the1/16” thick deck planks11. Installing the Knightheads & Hawse Ti

15. Installing the Great Beam & Deck BeamThe great beam (two laser-cut pieces)at the quarter deck step sits atopBulkhead H. Glue the laser-cut dec

Stealer: Plank inserted into anotherplank or between two adjacent planksto reduce their width. Or, when twoplanks taper toward a narrow end, bothmay h

3. Planking Butts Few trees grow as tall as ships are long.Consequently, real planks were generally20 or 30 feet in length. Some buildersthink a plank

6. Planking the Outer HullBelt Layout: Planking from the deck tothe keel is tapered fore and aft.Consequently, the hull is divided intoBelts A throug

your proportional dividers to the numberof planks in Belt A. Span the width ofBelt A with the long legs. The distancebetween the points on the short l

The alternative approach is to installthe coamings, hatches, and deck struc-tures on top of the deck, but remem-ber to reduce their height by 1/16”.De

By the early 1900s, the fishing schooner had developedinto a fast, efficient vessel. American and Canadianschooners were similar in design. Both opera

Adding the Hull Details1. Fishing & Racing GearOn the plans are symbols of a fishand pennant. The former identifiesequipment used primarily for fi

4. HatchesMake hatch covers as either plankedstructures or from 1/32” thick sheet.Dip lifting ring shafts in cyano, theninsert in two diagonal corners

10. Fife Rail & Fore Boom CrutchThe main fife rail, rail bar, knees, foreboom crutch, and crutch pad are laser-cutparts. Stanchions are Britannia,

Winch shaft, gear, sprocket, and winch heads:This assembly fits on the jumbo jibboom crutch bitts. Starboard winchhead, bearing, and sprocket are alre

17. Eyebolts & CleatsEyebolt locations are shown on Sheets 3and 6. Drill a hole wherever one isrequired. Attach blocks to eyeboltsrequiring them.

Trestle Trees and Spreaders: Fashion trestletrees and spreaders from stripwood.Between the spreaders is a brass rod(Figure 6-3).Pin Saddle (foremast)

264. Building the Booms & GaffsThe jumbo jib and fore booms havemetal fittings at their forward ends. Themain boom and fore and mai

27Bobstays: Support the bowsprit fromupward loads. Bowsprit guys, some-times called bowsprit shrouds, supportjibbooms and bowsprits from sideforces. B

Braces: Lines attached to the ends ofyards for directing their angles andholding them taut. Lifts are standing orrunning lines for holding yards whenl

29Seizings: Seize lines with cotton, nylon,or silk thread. Do not secure lines withknots. Knots are for shoelaces. Touchseizings with diluted white gl

3TTAABBLE LE OOFFCCOONTENTSNTENTSIntroduction and Credits 2Brief History 4 Before You Begin 5 Tools needed to

30Figure 8-3 also shows the sequence forreeving lanyards. When looking out-board at any deadeye, always start witha knot in the upper left-hand deadey

31The pullback stay and main topmaststay have a lanyard at one end to tight-en the stay. While details heighten amodel’s appearance, these lanyards ca

Attach as many lines as possible tosails or spars before mounting on themodel. Play out enough line for reev-ing, handling, and belaying. Don’t bein a

Main Topsail: It always sets on the portside of the main peak halliards, but withthe tack over the main gaff on the star-board side. This sail has one

1 mm = .03937 of an inchTo find tenths of an inch:.03937" x mms= tenths of an inchTo find mmsfrom tenths of an inch:Tenths of an inch ÷ .03937&q

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INSTRUCTION MANUALBLUENOSE Canadian Fishing Schooner1921Model by Bob EvansMODEL PLANS AND INSTRUCTIONS BY BEN LANKFORDASSISTED BY ERIK A.R. RONNBERG,

MODEL SHIPWAYSADivision of Model Expo Inc.P.O. Box 229140, Hollywood, FL33020MODELER'S LOGDate Time Notes

When done, iron the sails. Be careful notto burn them. Next, cut the sail shapeusing Line A in Figure 7-4. Fold thehem, iron it flat, and sew as close

Figure 8-3 also shows the sequence forreeving lanyards. When looking out-board at any deadeye, always start witha knot in the upper left-hand deadeyeh

halliard (Figure 9-2). Remove the sheetand tack.3. Fore & Main TopsailsSeized them to the mast hoops (Figure9-3).Fore Topsail: It has a double she

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5Bluenose is a beautiful, inter-esting ship and makes asplendid model. Assemblingthe plank-on-bulkhead hulldevelops an understanding ofhow real ships

How to Work With the Plans & PartsBefore starting the model, carefullyexamine the kit and study the plans.First, determine if all the listed parts

a pair of small pliers and pull inopposite directions. Thin brass sheetscan be scored with a utility knife andmetal straightedge, then snapped off.Use

Painting & Staining the ModelBeginning with directions on applyingfinishes may seem strange, but it isn’t.Much time and effort can be saved andmor

9Masking surfaces: Masking can be atricky process. Some brands of maskingtape are worthless, because they allowpaint to seep underneath their edges.Fo